With stunted hair growth and hair loss a major concern for many with afro textured hair (and a major topic in the headlines, remember The Slap?), the search for effective solutions continues. As vanity-driven as it may sometimes seem, given all the emotion attached to hair, and its correlation with what we see as beautiful, the experience of hair loss or stunted hair growth can feel devastating.
As fulfilling as the hair retention, health and growth journey is, I – like all semi-edgeless people – know the process can also be an arduous one. With myriad products out there promising the sun, moon and stars – yet often failing to promote growth from a single follicle – it’s all too easy to feel exhausted by the noise, or to just give up trying altogether.
The Texture Gap Report produced by Carra, founded by textured hair expert Winnie Awa, found that “the tighter the texture, the higher the likelihood of multiple concerns. Sixy per cent of Type 4 have four or more concerns, compared to 35 per cent of Type 2.” The report also states that “two our of three consumers with Type 4 hair struggle with dryness and slow growth”, and are more than twice as likely to experience breakage.
As someone with type 4b hair who has struggled with hair loss, I thought it was time to find out what really works, and what doesn’t. Now that I’m restarting my hair growth journey, I wanted to hear from the experts themselves. Here, four pros share how to prevent hair loss, and encourage growth.
What causes stunted hair growth?
It is crucial to be aware of the negative effects of aggressive styling. “From pulling hair back into tight buns, to detangling with force, to using a lot of edge control, to braids so tight you can’t move your face,” lists off hairstylist and creator of Manketti Hair Oil, Charlotte Mensah. “Keep it simple!” If your hair growth appears to be stunted, you may be manipulating your hair a little too much. Mensah suggests simple styles to take the pressure off hair and edges. “Start with two-strand twists and protective styles that can be worn a few times weekly,” she says.
Cyndia Harvey, founder of This Hair of Mine, agrees that excessive heat styling or chemical treatments are often to blame for damage and breakage. “Additionally, everyday stressors and environmental factors, along with harsh cleansers and product build-up, can disrupt the delicate scalp microbiome and impede hair growth,” she continues. “In more severe cases, this imbalance and inflammation can even lead to hair loss.”
While external factors may contribute to hair loss or worsen scalp conditions such as dandruff or fungal infections, there are a number of internal and genetic factors that we should also consider. “Hormonal imbalances, chronic stress and psychological trauma can also hinder the natural growth process,” says Mensah. A “healthy mind” as Mensah puts it, in addition to patience, is key to achieving the best results. Harvey says: “Ultimately, consistency, patience, and overall health maintenance are key factors in promoting healthy hair growth.”
“Each type of alopecia will have its own specific cause, symptoms and treatment,” says natural hairstylist and author of The Healthy Hair Handbook, Ebuni Ajiduah. “A very common type is telogen effluvium, or increased shedding. This can be due to weather changes, illness, stress, pregnancy or anything else that can cause the body to become unbalanced. While other types of alopecia can have links to the immune system and genetics or some combination of all of the above.”
“Dehydration is a key factor behind stunted hair growth,” shares hairstylist and loc specialist, Mars Wolf, who also points to the possible impacts of being on certain medications, or vitamin or mineral deficiencies.
What are the best ways to encourage hair growth?
The first and most important thing to do is to establish why the hair is not growing. “Getting the correct diagnosis for hair loss is the most important step in regrowing hair,” says Ajiduah. “Seeing a professional who is culturally sensitive can prevent misdiagnosis, and help to make the treatment plan more appropriate.”
Proper haircare practices are also crucial. “Using gentle haircare products suitable for your hair type, and being mindful when detangling are important,” Harvey says. “It is also important to keep the scalp clean and healthy by regularly cleansing it to remove product build-up, excess oils and dirt.”
The experts are unanimous on the impact of diet on hair growth. “There’s an uncomfortable thing we all seem to overlook, and that’s nutrition,” says Mensah. “It still surprises me how many people neglect their diet. Many benefits come from a healthy balanced diet – not just beautiful hair. This is a good place to start, hair growth requires a healthy scalp, a healthy body, and healthy hair habits to work most effectively.” Harvey echoes the sentiment: “First and foremost, maintaining a balanced and nutritious diet is essential. Consuming a variety of fruits, vegetables, lean proteins, whole grains, and healthy fats provides the necessary vitamins, minerals and proteins for hair health.”
“Opt for supplements such as biotin, folic acid, and vitamin D – however you should consult with your doctor first,” says Wolf. “Fish oils are also great for promoting hair growth, and [look to] zinc, as it helps reduce hair loss.”
At what point is a hair transplant a better option than topical treatments?
If you have noticed thinning edges, especially as a Black woman, you may have traction alopecia (a condition caused by repeated tight pulling). The way to treat this is to change styles and use topical stimulants, or, ultimately, to have a hair transplant.
“If you’ve tried all of the things mentioned above and you’re still not seeing much improvement, then I would suggest considering going down the hair transplant route,” says Wolf. “Before committing to the decision, I suggest speaking to several different professionals and dermatologists to make sure it is safe for you. Like most procedures, there are health risks to be cautious of. It is possible to still experience hair loss even after a hair transplant.”
According to Ajiduah, those who opt for a hair transplant can usually to expect to see results within three to six months, but, she adds, no news is good news. “If the loss has stayed the same, or at least not gotten worse, this could be a sign that it is working,” she says. Of course, a hair transplant involves a significant financial outlay plus recovery time. It is essential to consult with a professional before pursuing this as a course of treatment. “Surgery may not be the best option for everyone, and a good doctor will signpost other treatment options,” says Ajiduah. “When thinking about transplants, it is best to choose a surgeon who is part of a professional body, like the British Association of Hair Restoration Surgery (BAHRS), or International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS).
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“Incorporating scalp massages into your nightly routine is a great way to encourage hair growth,” says Mensah. “Massage in a few drops of hair oil – in my case the Charlotte Mensah Manketti Hair Oil – a few nights a week. This will stimulate blood flow, bring more oxygen to the follicles and encourage hair growth.” In more severe cases, Wolf suggests speaking to your doctor or dermatologist about topical or oral treatments such as ketoconazole shampoo, which may produce better results.
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