The biggest trend in skincare right now? Calming, soothing and healing the skin. If you’re someone who struggles with a reactive skin condition, like eczema or psoriasis, these words won’t be anything new to you – but some of the formulas that accompany them may well be. That’s because a number of skincare brands are now launching formulas specifically dedicated to taking down inflammation. Calming skincare is having a moment.
The rise of calming skincare
As someone with rosacea-prone and mildly reactive skin, this trend is right up my street. Many of us had started to take our skin health into our own hands pre-pandemic (a habit that accelerated during the lockdowns while we were stuck at home), ordering active ingredients to – we thought – “improve” our skin. You know the story, because if you’re reading this, you’ve probably been there. You throw a retinoid on each night, maybe a vitamin C come morning, try exfoliating acids a few times a week and hope to achieve the glow that you’ve seen influencers sporting on social media. The reality? Your skin barrier can’t actually take it.
This, consultant dermatologist Dr Justine Hextall believes, is one of the reasons why calming formulas have become so popular. “Consumers have been reading about, and searching for, specific ingredients that will essentially repair photo damage (ie, improve skin texture, tone and firmness), and there was a focus on retinols, skin peels and brightening skin ingredients,” she explains.
“While these are laudable skin goals, somehow hydrating and calming ingredients get forgotten. Most of the conversations in my clinic focused on how ‘strong’ an ingredient was and how quickly results would be seen, with many patients visibly disappointed when I discussed hydration and repair. Unless a skin regime left the skin red and shedding, it was disappointingly inactive.”
Overdoing it on the actives
While I’ve always considered myself relatively measured in my approach to skincare, it is trickier than I thought to not overdo it when you’re using lots of different products. Dryness, redness, flakiness and breakouts are all indications that one might be suffering from an impaired skin barrier, but most of us put these down to our skin just being our skin again (eye roll), rather than it being a result of a skincare regime that’s out of balance.
“The skin barrier is made out of lipids and natural oils that protect our skin and maintain moisture levels,” explains Fiorela Bitsi, dermal therapist at facial clinic Pfeffer Sal. “Even something as seemingly straightforward as your cleanser can disrupt the skin barrier (predominantly those that foam), which then leads to transepidermal water loss, while intersection with environmental aggressors, like UV exposure, changes in temperature and pollution, can also cause inflammation.” Low-grade inflammation can in turn lead to the breakdown of collagen and elastin – otherwise known as “inflammaging”. If your skincare routine isn’t right for your skin type, you’ve got a recipe for poor skin health, whether you’re genetically predisposed to sensitivity, or not.
Both Pfeffer Sal and Dr Hextall have noted an increase in patients presenting with dermatitis, peri-oral dermatitis and acne, the latter of which can be caused by an impaired barrier function. When our barrier goes kaput, it not only allows moisture out, but can also let irritants, allergens and infection in. “Common signs include skin feeling dry and tight after washing and needing to moisturise immediately; having difficulty tolerating topical creams, with the skin often stinging and burning; and visible signs of redness, dryness and flaking,” says Dr Hextall. “Even being aware of your skin – ie, noticing that it is feeling tight or uncomfortable later in the day – suggests the barrier function is suboptimal.”
Rebuilding your skin barrier with calming formulas
This is where a number of new skincare launches come into play, with many targeted specifically towards reactive or upset skin. My own skin has benefitted no end from moving towards a more minimal approach – I use a lot of La Roche-Posay’s Toleriane line, more on which later, alongside simple hydrating formulas, SPF and moisturiser. After my skin settled down a bit after my last run-in with aggravation, I introduced a daily active treatment – Klira’s The Special – that is targeted to my skin and its unique needs, while continuing to keep my calming regime in place.
What I love about calming products is that they nourish the skin, quench its thirst and can be used in abundance without the risk of irritation. I’ve found that skipping a morning cleanse in favour of wiping my face with Garnier’s reusable microfibre pads and water has helped immeasurably (and saved on cleanser). And I really feel that swapping from harsh, aggressive ingredients to the gentle approach has felt more like self-care. There is nothing worse than waking up with itchy, tight skin each morning – especially when deep down you know it’s linked with the retinoid you’ve been using. My skin has subsequently never felt (or looked) healthier.
“For me the most important step is the cleanser you use,” says Dr Hextall. “If you over-strip your skin with a foaming wash or soap, it’s very difficult to compensate even with the most effective moisturiser. Once the pH of the skin has been disrupted with overzealous cleansing, it will start to lose moisture and that’s difficult to restore. If your skin feels tight or dry after cleansing, you need to address this first step.” Some excellent (and affordable) options include CeraVe’s Hydrating Cleanser, Cetaphil’s Gentle Skin Cleanser and La Roche-Posay’s Toleriane Softening Foaming Gel Cleanser – all of these brands offer no-fuss formulas that work, and my advice is to always start there.
Murad also recently launched three new soothing products – the Soothing Oat & Peptide Cleanser forgoes sulphates (which can strip the skin) in favour of micellar cleansing peptides. The antioxidant-rich oat in the formula is great to help soothe, while a sugar complex hydrates and supports the skin barrier. Paula’s Choice also relaunched its Calm line, with ingredients including northern truffle (a mushroom extract, known to soothe red and sensitised skin), hydrating squalane and prebiotics. You’ll love the Rescue & Repair Weightless Moisturiser.
Oodee, meanwhile, is the world’s first allergen neutral skincare brand – it formulates its skincare without food and fragrance allergens, making it a good choice for anyone who is extremely sensitive or simply wants to keep their skincare super clean – try the Aurora Perfecting Serum. Pai Skincare is another brand created specifically for sensitive skin – its founder, Sarah Brown, suffered from chronic urticaria [hives] for years and wanted to create natural, organic and really effective formulas that those with sensitivities could rely on. The Rosehip Oil is a bestseller – plus, it’s said to be one of the Princess of Wales’s favourites.
Further shout-outs go to Susanne Kaufmann, whose Hydrating Face Gel is hypoallergenic, fragrance-free (essential in a calming formula) and packed with mushroom extracts and hyaluronic acid; SkinCeuticals, whose Phyo Corrective range is second to none – and one of my personal favourites; and Dr Jart’s bestselling Ceramidin range. It’s time to let skin chill out a bit.
The best calming skincare products
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